Mountaineering & Multipitch Trip to the Bow Valley - July 2025

RANDY ABBOTT

ACC Manitoba members Randy Abbott, Trisha Burch, Katarzyna Dyszy, Jordan Fisher, Charles Roy and Erica Veenstra travelled to Canmore, Alberta last July and packed a whole lot of hiking, climbing and mountaineering into one week. The group climbed multiple single-pitch climbs, a number of bolted and trad multi-pitch climbs and summited two mountain peaks.

Three of us headed out a week early and camped outside of Banff, sitting out daily and nighttime rain with some sprinkled-in climbs, hikes, indoor climbing, and hot-tubbing through the week. I was very thankful for Charles and Trisha’s giant tarp, their foresight in cutting and stacking days of firewood, and the campsite banter. While it was wet, it was still wonderful to be outside, active in the mountains, and to enjoy socializing with friends around a campfire.

It continued to rain on and off through the following week when the rest of the group showed up, but despite the rain, we got a surprising amount of climbing in. We were fortunate to have stayed at the ACC Canmore Alpine Hostel and Mosquito Creek Hostel, which provided dry indoor sleeping, cooking and prepping for the days of climbing ahead. We were also fortunate to have guides who were very experienced, known to the group, and accommodating in working with us to choose appropriate objectives and time climbs based on the weather.

Erica Roles and Merrie-Beth Board provided guiding services to the group for four days. The format for the week was two guided days of multi-pitch rock climbing per pair of climbers and one day of guided mountaineering per person, with the mountaineering occurring on the same day, with two guides taking two groups of climbers up two different peaks. Each paired duo of climbers had an “off” day to do as they liked.

In total, the members of the group climbed the following rock routes:

·       Geriatriac – A 7 pitch 5.8 trad route on the East End of Mount Rundle.

·       Mother's Day Buttress – An 8 pitch 5.6 trad route on Cascade Mountain

·       Gooseberry – An 8 pitch 5.8 trad route on the backside of Tunnel Mountain

·       Wheat Kings – A 7 pitch 5.7 bolted route on Cascade Mountain

·       115^th Meridian – A 3 pitch 5.7 bolted route on Cascade Mountain

·       Prospect — A 10 pitch 10c bolted route in Echo Canyon / Grotto Mountain

·       A “bunch” (too many to name here) of single-pitch routes at Sunshine Rock and a few on Tunnel Mountain.

Erica Roles, Kasia and Charles summited Mount Athabasca, which is no small undertaking — especially with new snow having fallen the previous night. Merrie-Beth, Randy and Erica V summited Athabasca’s smaller sub-peak Boundary Peak — all the while watching Erica, Kasia and Charles work their way up Athabasca. Unfortunately, Jordan and Trisha were laid up this day, so they had to miss out.

One day became dedicated to “rock school” and lowering systems at Sunshine Rock just outside the Sunshine Ski Hill area, as it was the one day we got rained out. Nothing like standing around in the drizzle under a tarp trying to learn somewhat complex knot systems. Class was followed up by a mellower afternoon in a glorious wood-fired sauna and cold creek plunging at Mosquito Creek Hostel on the Icefields Parkway.

I would highly recommend this trip to those with some climbing experience and a good level of fitness. Having two guides over several days in a small group at a 1:2 ratio allows participants to choose and climb routes they might not normally tackle on their own and to improve their climbing skills. For those who are new to the area, less familiar with it, and/or have no or little multi-pitch climbing experience, the format offers a great opportunity to learn multi-pitch climbing and/or mountaineering in a safe, big-mountain environment from very experienced guides. Socializing is a bonus (or for some, it's the whole point of going).

A huge thank you goes out to Erica R. and Merrie-Beth for providing a terrific climbing experience, and to Erica Veenstra for co-leading the trip. It was wonderful to spend a week with such a fun, easy-going group of people.

Can’t wait 'til next year…..

CHARLES ROY

A successful trip isn’t just measured by the number of routes and pitches climbed; it's also measured by what we learn, how we adapt, and how we grow. Despite the early setback from injuries and the persistent rain, this trip was ultimately a success, thanks to preparation, flexibility, and the strong leadership and guidance we’ve gained over the years.

Our guided days offered the opportunity to explore new terrain in both Echo Canyon and the EEOR area, with a focus on multi-pitch climbing. Echo Canyon presented an interesting challenge: several pitches required aiding due to rain-slicked rock. Early on, our stick clip broke just above ground level, and a quick fix was made possible thanks to a multi-tool and electrical tape. That small moment carried a big lesson, bring a multi-tool and electrical tape, preparedness always!

While there are always variables out of our control, from weather to injuries to unexpected equipment issues, the key to a successful trip lies in preparing for the variables that are “in our control”. That preparation starts not days before, but often weeks or even months in advance.

Being mentally, physically, and logically prepared allows us to adapt when things go sideways. Physical conditioning, mental resilience, gear checks, route research, and logistical planning all help mitigate risk and ensure safety and enjoyment for everyone involved.

The value of having certified guides for part of our trip cannot be overstated. Their deep knowledge of the land, refined route-finding skills, and up-to-date expertise, from advanced belay and anchor techniques to glacier travel, elevated our experience. As an educator, what I appreciated most was the instructional element our guides brought. These are not just trips; they are immersive learning opportunities that bring new skills we can take home, refine, and share with others in our own communities.

To me, being part of a club means building each other up, sharing what we’ve learned, and contributing to the collective growth of the group. The strength and sustainability of our club rely on individuals willing to lead, mentor, and teach. This trip was a shining example of that.

Thank you to Randy and Erica for your dedication, leadership, and time. Your efforts made this trip meaningful and memorable. The impact of your guidance will carry on as we share what we’ve learned and continue to grow as individuals and as a club.