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SOUTH CLIFF

South Cliff is one of the Goosenecks.

Access

South Cliff is located on the south shore of Gooseneck Lake, directly south of the Main Cliff. It may be accessed from a canoe but can also be approached on foot. To do so, drive 1.2 km down Cygnet Lake Road and park on the right. Hike 10 minutes north through the bush along a well-defined trail to the top of the western section of the cliff. South Cliff is divided into an eastern section and a western section, with a broken area in the middle through which an exit route winds.

Classic Routes

Eastern Section

 

Colonized Planet 5 – Shikasta 5.7, 24m *

Robert France, Peter Aitchison – 1982 July 26
Start under the wide chimney at the far end of the cliff. Climb the chimney to the large ledge. Ascend the right side of the prominent flake, then move onto the face to the undercling.

Falling Stones 5.XX?
Mark Giesbrecht?


Falling Stars 5.10, 24m *

FA: (5.9/A1) Peter Aitchison, Robert France – 1981 Aug 19

FFA: Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht – 1988

Located on the first right facing corner on the left end of the cliff. Ascend through the short overhang to the ledge. Climb the corner and face before regaining the crack near the top. Exit to the left onto large ledges.
 

Deception Corner 5.6, 18m *

Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Garry Yamashita – 1980 May
Ascend the prominent sloping dihedral just left of where the cliff moves back from the water.

Lazy Layaway 5.7, 12m

FA:(5.8/C3) Peter Aitchison, Robert France – 1982 Aug

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht – 1989
Start at the right facing corner 10m left of Deception Corner. Ascend the crack to the top.
Peter Aitchison, Robert France – 1981 Aug 19

Picnic at Hanging Rock 5.10aXXX?, 24m
Ascend a short corner 10m right of Deception Corner to a ledge. Move left around a series of corners to the arete underneath the overhang. Bridge under the overhanging crux and ascend the crack to finish.

Opening Shot 5.6, 21m
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Garry Yamashita – 1980 May

Start left of the large triangular overhang. Climb the face on the grey wall, then traverse left to the ledge. Ascend the corner to the top.

Slow Rain Coming 5.9, 24m

Peter Aitchison, Tibor Bodi, Rafael Munoz – 1986
The corner left of Nice Route; move left and up to the top (crux).

Nice Route 5.6, 18m
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Garry Yamashita – 1980 May

Start just right of the big triangular overhang at a block bridging the gap between the face and the flatter ground. Ascend 3m then traverse right 3m and move up to a big ledge. Climb the prominent crack splitting the cliff to finish.

Route Name? (XXX?) 5.8, 9m
Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht, Peter Aitchison – 1988 Aug 15

Start at the extreme right end of this section at the prominent corner.

Western Section

Crevasse 5.7, 37m

Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz – 1986
Start below the prominent block projecting from the crack at the left end of this cliff section.

 

Pitch 1 (XXm): Ascend the large crack and block then traverse the large crevasse.

Pitch 2 (XXm): Climb the chimney above to finish.

Skinnee Chimney 5.7, 21m **
Richard Tilley, Robert France, Peter Aitchison – 1980 July 13

Start below the prominent narrow chimney, 15m left of Reflection Corner. Ascend the crack-chimney-crack system to the top.

Captain Granitic and the Piezo-Electric Kid 5.10a, 30m ***
FA: (5.7/A3) Casey Shaw, Robert France – 1982 Oct

FFA: Peter Aitchison, Robert France – 1985

Start below the highest point on the cliff, 3m left of Reflection Corner.

 

Pitch 1 (20m): Ascend the narrow crack in the left facing corner. Traverse left under the prominent overhang to the large ledge.

Pitch 2 (10m): Ascend the crack to finish.

Commander Carrot and the Vigorous Young Sprouts 5.10a, 31m ***
Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Ralph Wright – 1993 June

Start as for Captain Granitic.


Pitch 1 (20m): Ascend the narrow crack in the left facing corner to the ledge.

Pitch 2 (11m): Ascend the “S” crack and hand traverse to right, over a large ledge, to the top.

Reflection Corner 5.8, 24m ***

Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley – 1975 June
Start at the inside corner right of the Captains, below the highest point of the cliff. Ascend the corner, first trending left, then trending right to avoid the steep wall near the top.

Reflect Glory 5.8, 24m

Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht, Mike Nahir – 1988
Start as for Reflection Corner, but move right and climb straight up some corners and cracks to rejoin Reflection Corner near the top.

Baby Mitre 5.11a, 25m R

FA: Ralph Wright – 1992 Aug

FFA: Mike Baxter – 1994 July
Ascend face 5m right of Reflection Corner past a bolt to a large ledge. Continue up a flaring dihedral (runout) past second bolt, then exit via an overhanging hand and finger crack. (Better on TR than on lead!)


The Swimmer 5.6, 18m

Everett Fee, Casey Shaw, Dick Erkaw – 1980 July 13

Start at the inside corner 8m left of Redemption. Ascend the corner to a terrace then ascend another corner to finish.
 

Temptation 5.8, 21m
Doug Leonard, Peter Aitchison, Dan Price – 1983 Aug

Start below a short crack under the roof 5m left of Redemption. Climb the crack and move left to a narrow ledge. Follow the crack below the bulge then traverse right onto the wall. Finish up the short inside corner shared with Redemption.

Redemption 5.6, 21m *

Peter Aitchison, Anil Shukla – 1975 June
Start beneath a crack on the right side of the large flake. Ascend the crack, move left across the top of the flake, then up the short corner shared with Temptation to finish.

Lumber Shirts and Ties 5.10, 13m TR

Rafael Munoz, Gregor Brandt, Janice Liwanag – 19XX
This route shares the same start as Redemption?, following a direct line of cracks, roofs(crux) and short slab to the right. Finish on a thin crack on face.

Ain’t No Princesses Here 5.9, 13m TR
Gregor Brandt, Janice Liwanag, Rafael Munoz 1999 Aug 15

Same start as Lumber Shirts and Ties, but instead of following the ramp right, climb the vertical face directly in front.

Green Team 5.8, 24m ***

Everett Fee, Robert France, Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Casey Shaw – 1980 July 13
Start at the right-facing corner 3m right of Redemption. Ascend the corner and traverse right near the top.

Green Team – Direct Finish 5.9, 24m ***

Doug Leonard, S. Smythe – 1986 Aug
Start as for standard route. At the top of the corner, finish over the overhanging bulge.

Roofroof 5.8, 21m *

Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Robert France – 1979 Sept
Ascend the largest corner towards the right end of the cliff. Circumvent the overhang on the right to finish.

Lightning Bolt 5.8, 18m *

Peter Aitchison, Doug Leonard – 1982 May 2
Traverse right from the base of Roofroof along the vegetation to the corner start. Climb up and right past three overhangs to finish.

Gunwale 5.4, 9m

Richard Tilley, Liz Lugenbuhl – 1975 June
This route is accessed from the water or from a tricky rappel. Ascend the right-trending corner near the right end of the cliff.

Odd Angles and a Shade of Doubt 5.10b/c, 8m

TR: Gregor Brandt, Rafael Munoz -1997 July

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Janice Liwanag, Gregor Brandt – 1999 Aug 8
Extreme western end of cliff. This route starts from a small ledge 20cm above the level of the water in the summer. Must rappel to ledge to start on a hanging belay. Follow layback crack for 4m (crux) to marginal sloping ledge. Face crack climb to top.