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ROADSIDE

This cliff is conveniently located alongside the Trans-Canada Highway bypass just north of Kenora. The cliff is on private land and bolts are not allowed. Climbs that cannot otherwise be protected are top roped.
 

Access

The cliff is 4.2km east of the only stop light on the bypass, where P.R.#658, the road from Kenora to Redditt, intersects the bypass. At 200km from Winnipeg, Roadside is the closest major cliff to the city. The cliff is on the north side of the highway and faces southeast. Access the top of the cliff via a path that starts at the highway, or follow a path along the bottom by down-climbing from the road.

There are two exit routes (of sort): the Pine Tree Exit Route (PTER) is a right-trending ramp with three noticeable pine trees about 45m from the road; Charlotte’s Exit Route (CER), not that easy at about 5.3, is a major right-trending line starting at the right end of a large face about 235m from the road.

Classic Routes

 

Guacamole 5.7, 13m

Rafael Munoz, Glenn Bailey, Gregor Brandt – 1999 June 15
Starts immediately left of the Pine Tree Exit Route (PTER), about 45m from the road. Ascend easy ground to start of crack/left facing corner. Face and crack climbing.

Refried Beans 5.6, 10m

Gregor Brandt, Glenn Bailey, Rafael Munoz – 1999 June 15

35m from start of trail. Follow a left trending crack starting at a small right facing corner. Climb crack to small roof to end.

Quesadillas 5.7, 10m

Rafael Munoz, Glenn Bailey, Gregor Brandt – 1999 June 15
Two meters right of Refried Beans. Ascend left facing flake to large ledge. Follow right trending crack to the top.

 

Cuarenta 5.10a, 9m

Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison – 1999 May 2
Starts about 8m right of the major overhangs, or 39m right of PTER. Start below big inverted V feature, crack on left side to sloping ledge, climb over bulge and up through slot to finish.

Double Jeopardy 5.10, 12m

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen – 1993 Aug
Starts about 10m right of the first major overhang (lots of loose rubble beneath), or 39m right of PTER. Follow twin parallel-sided cracks to a ledge, then face climb to the top.

Terminator 5.10d, 11m TR

Jake Klassen – 1991 Oct
Starts 10m to the right of Double Jeopardy, 3m left of Snakeskin Crack. Face climb to a bush, then trend left past a small overhanging roof.

First Blood 5.10a, 12m TR **

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Everett Fee, Doug Leonard – 1994 Sept 18
Starts just right of Terminator. Climb various cracks and the face past a sickle-shaped scoop just to the left of an outside corner between Terminator and Snakeskin Crack.

Snakeskin Crack 5.8, 12m

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen – 1991 Aug 31
At the start of the first big face (approximately 50m right of PTER) is a big ledge half way up the cliff with lots of junipers. Follow a crack and then the right-facing overhanging corner at the left end of this ledge.

Scooby Do 5.7+, 18m **

TR: Cindy Klassen, Jake Klassen – 1992 Sept

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Conrad Hoeppner – 1993 Aug
Follows the thin crack on the face about 5m right of Snakeskin Crack that ends at a large overhanging tree.

 

Yon Ju 5.10b, 18m

Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison – 1999 May 14
Starts about 3m right of Scooby Doo. Ascend to overhang about 4m from ground, climb right and up over overhang (crux) and trend left along prominent ledges above. Ascend left trending crack above (crux).

Scooby-Snacks 5.10, 18m *

TR: Lesandra Dobson, Rafael Munoz – 1992 Sept

FFA: Tibor Bodi, Doug Reimer, Jason Pronyk, Gary Monkman – 1994 June 15
Located right of Scooby Do in an alcove. Follow the left-facing corner.

Do the Right Thing 5.8, 18m

TR: Rafael Munoz – 1999 May 10

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Gerald Brandt, Gregor Brandt – 1999 July
Start as per Scooby Snacks to the start of the left facing corner. Climb out to the right and up on to face.

eM.D 5.10b, 18m TR

Rafael Munoz – 1999 May 10

1m right of Scooby Snacks. Climb face to small overhang, move right to end of roof, and climb face to finish.

Back to School 5.5, 18m *

Cindy Klassen, Steve Young, Jake Klassen – 1991 Aug 31
At the right end of the first big face and 7m right of Scooby-Do is a corner that leads to a chimney behind a large flake. At the top of the chimney go left on a ledge and finish up the crack (crux).

Don’t Count Me Out 5.8, 9m

Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison – 1999 May 14

Start about 9m left of Greek Salad. Follow right trending ramp up to small roof. Climb to right of roof to corner above.

 

Teacher’s Pet 5.7, 18m

Cindy Klassen, Steve Young – 1993 Sept
Starts after a long, low broken stretch of cliff, 7m left of Greek Salad. Follow a right facing corner to a large ledge. Finish up the right-facing corner at the back of the ledge.

With Croutons 5.10c, 10m

TR: Gregor Brandt, Gerald Brandt, Garth Irwin, Gord Zubrecki – 1997 Aug

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Garth Irwin – 1999 May 29

Climb left facing corner/chimney, as per Greek Salad, move left to left trending thin crack to small roof, climb crack above to ledge.

Greek Salad 5.6, 18m *

Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1991 Sept 1
Starts about 60m right of Back to School, after a long, low broken stretch of cliff. This route follows a left-facing corner/chimney that leads to a left-trending crack and corner.

Aar-Be-Dar 5.7, 18m *

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Steve Young – 1991 Sept 1

Overcome the large bulge just right of Greek Salad to gain a ledge; follow the left-trending crack to the top.

Tiptoe Through The Tulips 5.7, 18m

Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1991 July 28
Located 26m right of Greek Salad. Climb the right side of a flake to a ledge. Move left along the ledge, then up and trend back right into the bulging crack to another ledge. Finish up the left crack.

Knackers Wear High-Techs 5.9, 12m

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Steve Young – 1993 Sept

The obvious left-trending diagonal crack that begins on a ledge part way up the cliff, about 4m right of Tiptoe Through The Tulips.

 

XL 5.10a, 18m

Rafael Munoz, Gregor Brandt – 1999 June 4
20m right of Knackers Wear High-Techs which is the obvious left trending shallow ramp. Follow crack system to ledge, climb shallow right facing corner, continue up high to right trending arc, straight to top.

Beam Me Up Scotty 5.10b, 21m ***

TR: Rob Hester 1991 Sept

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Lesandra Dodson – 1992 Sept

Starts about 58m to the right of Greek Salad and 16m right of Charlotte’s Exit Route (CER), at a right trending crack system in the middle of the big face. After a bouldery beginning, follow the crack to a roof at 2/3 of the cliff height. Traverse right around a bulge to a ledge. The well-protected right-facing corner above is the crux (small fingers help)!

 

High Cost of Livin 5.10b/c, 22m

Rafael Munoz, Gerald Brandt, Gregor Brandt – 1999 June 26
This route shares the start with Beam Me Up Scotty. Starts about 58m to the right of Greek Salad and 16m right of CER, at a right trending crack system in the middle of the big face. After a bouldery beginning, follow the crack to a roof at 2/3 of the cliff height. Traverse left approx. 3m along a small foot ledge to a prominent thin flake. Climb the thinly protected crack (crux) to the top.

 

LGD 5.10d, 18m TR

Gregor Brandt, Rafael Munoz, Gerald Brandt – 1999 Sept 15
55m right of Beam Me Up Scotty. Climb easy ground to small ledge half way up the face. Climb left-facing corner to thin crack above (crux).

Stepping Stone 5.10, 21m TR **

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen – 1992 June 21
Start at the right end of a boulder field 60m to the right of Beam Me Up Scotty. Climb the corner just right of a big overhang to a smaller overhang. Traverse right around the large boulder, then continue up the corner to a large ledge. Step up on the stepping stone, climb the face and follow the crack system to the top.

Tag Team 5.10a, 9m

Rob Hester, Doug Orr – 1991 Sept 18
Follow the crack about 10m right of Stepping Stone.

Cooper’s Ecstasy 5.9+, 24m ***

Jake Klassen, Ralph Wright – 1991 Sept 1

Located about 145m from CER. Unusually varied and sustained, this climb starts below a huge flake whose bottom forms an impressive overhang about 2m off the ground. Undercling the flake (6″pro) and follow the crack (more 6″pro) to a stance beneath a smaller overhanging flake. Undercling this flake, then lieback up its right side to finish.

White Fever 5.10d, 22m TR **

Everett Fee, Kathy Kalinowsky, Ken Boyko, Glenn Bailey – 1996 Sept 15
Start where a huge ledge 3m off the ground meets Raspberry Jam. Go up the corner 2m, then trend left on a steep ramp to the face below a small but prominent right-facing inside corner, about 3m left of Raspberry Jam. Climb past the corner to wide ledges. Continue up and right until standing on a very fragile-looking flake (!) 3m below the top. You are at the crux.

 

Raspberry Jam 5.8, 26m ***

Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1991 July 28
The beautiful inside corner on the main wall clearly noticeable from the highway, 10m right of Cooper’s Ecstasy. Climb past two ledges to gain the corner. The crux is a 5m crack near the top, which can either be jammed or liebacked. (At the base of the climb are a cross and mementos left in memory of a Kenora youth who committed suicide here – don’t disturb).

 

Slim Pickins 5.11, 28m TR ***

Ken Boyko, Kathy Kalinowsky – 1994 Oct 22
Satisfying face climb 2m right of Raspberry Jam. The challenging start is height dependent – tall climbers start straight up, shorter folks start 3m right of the corner and hand traverse left along seam. Tendonitis cruxes at the start and finish are 5.11, with small distinct edges in between at 5.10. Two narrow ledges allow re-energizing.

Terminator 2 5.10, 21m TR

Jake Klassen – 1992 July 13
Start 5m right of Raspberry Jam (about 1/3 of the way up the big right-trending ramp). Climb the face and trend left to a ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a large crack. Climb the crack then trend back right and climb the face and crack to the top.

 

Oh! Bother 5.6, 22m *

Steve Young, Peter Muir – 1994, Sept 10
To the right of Terminator 2 a cracked face sticks out at a right angle. Further right an overhung recessed area of dubious rock is reached. This climb follows the left side of this recess. Climb the cracked rock to a tree, continue up over huge loose blocks to the top of a pinnacle, then step up and right through a gorse bush onto more wobbly rock. Move up the ledge and exit via the chimney.

Last of the Summer’s Whine 5.6, 19m

???

A dirty, blocky corner about 40m right of Raspberry Jam where the cliff is about to turn north again.
 

Half-Moon 5.10b, 21m **

TR: Jake Klassen – 1992 Aug 16

FFA: Rafael Munoz, Garth Irwin, Kathy Kalinowsky – 1999 June 28
Start about 52m right Raspberry Jam in a large, clean alcove. Move between two flakes and a right leaning block to a ledge. Climb the face and corner (crux) to a half-moon shaped flake. Climb the right of the flake to a tiny ledge. Traverse left around the bulge above then up the face and crack to finish.

Half-Moon Variation 5.8, 21m TR

Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1992 Aug 16

An easier variation traverses right into Mosquito Heaven, then back to the half moon to avoid the crux.

Mosquito Heaven 5.8, 17m ***

TR: Cindy Klassen, Jake Klassen – 1992 July 13

FFA: Cindy Klassen – 1992 Oct
Start on the right corner of the alcove. Lieback and stem to the ledge (crux). Move through a bulge and up to the corner to a ledge with junipers. Move left onto the face and finish to a large tree.

 

Hold the Mushrooms 5.7, 15m *

Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1992 July 13
Start in the alcove around the arete from Mosquito Heaven, 60 m right of Raspberry Jam. Climb the corner to the ledge (crux) and go either to the right or left of a block. Continue up the corner to a large tree.

 

Frog Follies 5.8, 15m ***

TR: Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen – 1992 Aug 16

FFA: Dave Harrison – 1992 Oct
Starts 20m right of Hold the Mushrooms. Move up a flake to a small roof about 3m off the ground. Traverse right and up to the ledge. Traverse right again and follow pockets and flakes to a large juniper. The route is overhanging but the holds are large.

Another Roadside Attraction 5.10, 19m

Mike Baxter, Sue Baker – 19XX
Starts 8m from Frog Follies. Climb the broken corner to a flake wedged into the corner. Climb the left side of the face to the top of the wedge. Follow the blocky corner to the top.

 

Ortifay 5.10c, 17m

Rafael Munoz, Garth Irwin – 1999 Aug 3
About 3m right of Another Roadside Attraction. Follow right facing corner (crux) for about 8m to ledge , move left to easier ground, climb to top.

Electric Jello 5.10, 17m TR *

Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen – 1992 July 14
Starts 20m right of Frog Follies at a dark corner next to two large trees. Climb the boulder, then lieback the corner to a small ledge. Traverse left and face climb to finish. It may be possible to climb the black corner.

Syrah 97 5.10b, TR

Rafael Munoz, Christie Thorsteinson – 1999 Sept 22
About 7m right of Electric Jello. Ascend left facing corner with diagonal crack on right face, follow thin corner crack for about 6m (crux) to ledge. Follow crack system to top.

Jigsaw 5.7, 17m *

TR: Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen – 19XX

FFA: Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette – 1994 Oct 2
Follows a left-facing corner about 13m right of Electric Jello. Detour right at the blank section in the middle, then back into the corner to finish.