Written by Steve Young – June 8, 2020
From Bird Lake, Petch Lake is accessed from the Davidson Lake boat launch, along the north shore of the lake, through the narrows with care, across the north end of the north-south limb of the lake until a small waterfall is reached. Leave boat here, move to the upper lake, Petch, follow the shore around to the right, gain height over granite ridges and ledges. This is above the western finger bay of Petch, slabs on the far side. Descend to reach the end of the lake and general climbing area. The north side is characterized at this point by overhangs above a wall and slab and the south side by smooth slabs.
The two photos below show the start and end of the north area so far developed: –
Lonely Piton Slab
Crack in the sky overhang
Lonely Piton Slab – 5.? – 03.08.10 – Pat, Steve
An attempt was made on this route, Pat climbed the left-hand corner, then Steve climbed the moved right along the slab below the overhang, put in a couple of pitons and backed off. It was +30 C. When completed, this traverse right and open groove to the top will be a fine route.
Pat on Lonely Piton Slab
Steve on Lonely Piton Corner
Follow on left and then up a step by a silver birch into an alcove between a boulder and corner and wall.
Dangle – unfinished right route – 5.8 – 17.08.12 – Steve, Peter
Climb the crack in the wall, move left to the V block then up on to the slab above, traverse back right to the edge overlooking Lonely Piton Slab to a wide crack. Backed off at this point due to lack of large gear. Finish would either take the prominent overhanging corner or a crawl out right above LPS.
Dangle – top roped left finish – 5.9 – 15.09.13 – Peter, Steve, Pat
Follows the above route to the slab then ascends the left wall over bulges to the top.
Peter at the move left
Peter at the top section
This route can be accessed by either descending down through a hole from the above route or back below LPS and following the track towards the slabs on the opposite side, around a huge boulder and mighty tree and back into the main cliff to the prominent line.
Day at the Links – original start – 5.7 – 10.08.15 – Peter, Steve
Start below the prominent V groove, up and move left past a loose rock to a large birch tree. Up behind this to a small birch and then back right to above the V groove. Follow the crack to the top past a number of loose blocks. Finish steeply. After this ascent, the top of the V groove was extensively cleaned.
No photos were taken at this time due to the second dodging the rock fall!
Day at the Links – direct start – 5.9 – 29.08.15 – Pat, Peter.
Climbs the prominent, V groove then follows the above route to the top.
Rope follows the line
Peter cracks the V groove
Peter on top steep section
Animal Farm – 5.7 – 29.08.15 – Peter, Steve, Pat
As for the original start of Day at the Links till above the second birch tree, then straight up the crack to the top. Route extensively cleaned after initial ascent.
Peter gaining the foot of the crack
Peter in the crack
Just round the corner,
Toes R Us – 5.7- 14.08.16 – Steve, Pat, Peter.
Extensively cleaned 29.08.15, left to mature. First climbed with a left onto the slab start, second followed directly up the corner (5.8). Follow the corner to the overhang, move out left and climb the wall to the top. Protection good all the way. Pat was macheted prior to the ascent and the trauma caused him to lose his climbing shoes for a year so as to avoid another venture up the slabs on the other side of the valley! For me it was immediately prior to “toe” surgery.
Just to the left of the upper section of the above route we come to: –
Pig Heaven – 5.6 – 29.08.15 – Peter, Steve, Pat
Start to the right of a steep black wall, up over all sorts of stuff to reach the dirty corner. Follow this to the top.
Peter on Pig Heaven – Top of Toes R Us to the right
Moving on along left a band of steep rock is reached which is undercut at the base with more than an adequate amount of loose blocks.
Need a name crack – 5.9 – 15.09.13 – Top rope – Pat, Peter
Climb up out and into the very clean crack, follow to top.
The obvious clean crack
Pat gaining the crack
Whack – 17.08.12 – 5.7 – Steve, Peter.
Climb up to and over the block, past two birch trees and gain a large ledge on the right then back left and climb the corner crack and slab to the top.
Up by the block
The top crack and slab
Immediately left: –
In the Rough – 5.6 – 10.08.15 – Steve, Peter
An excuse for Steve to play with trees. Climb the left trending dirty crack, past small tree then back right over steps and rocks to the two larger birch trees on the route above. Follow Whack to the top.
Tree in the foreground to tree top right
Multi angled slabs make up the south side of the area.
Two routes on this section
Petchulant Slab – 5.? – 03.08.10 – Steve, Pat, Peter
Start below right of the two pines in the center, up the edge, protection on tree to right, across to the twin pines, protection. Up to thin horizontal crack, small cam, left to mini tree, protection, then straight up to the top, one minimal nut placement. Hairy!
They stick when you are not in them!
Pat on the slab
Ketchup – 5.? – 15.09.13 – Steve, Pat
Basically, follows the previous route but moves further left to a loose flake (?) lying on the slab, where I placed a cam, three years older and less steady for the direct finish.
Cam, flake and Pat
Slab with Lonely Piton Slab in background