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CAVE CLIFF

South Cliff is one of the Goosenecks.

Access

This cliff lies on the right side of the road as you drive to the Main Cliff, 3/4km south of the Main Cliff, and is partially hidden by trees. See the Map of Gooseneck Rocks for details.

Classic Routes

Cave Direct A3, 24m *

Peter Aitchison – 1975 May 31
Start beneath the cave at the low end of the cliff, closest to the road. Climb to the ledge at the back of the cave. Move out along the right-hand crack in the roof and up the vertical face to finish.

Dimril Stairs 5.10a, 24m

FA: (5.6/A1) Ken Lertzman, Peter Aitchison – 1975 June

FFA: Ralph Wright, Mark Giesbrecht, Don Fraser – 1989
Start right of Cave Direct at the base of some ramps. Free climb the ramps diagonally right to a ledge under a shallow corner leading to the top. Climb or aid up the corner and move left where the crack divides.

Hesitation 5.7, 21m

Peter Aitchison, Everett Fee – 1983 Sept
The easy looking inside corner 30m from the far end of the cliff.

Lorien 5.10, 18m *

FA:(A2) Peter Aitchison, Anil Shukla, Richard Tilley – 1975 June

FFA: Peter Gough, Peter Aitchison – 1979
The prominent left trending and somewhat overhanging crack found near the far end of the cliff.